Fuega har udbrud!

The Danish backpackers in our dormroom stands in the hallway and jumps exitingly up and down. "Fuego is erupting, Fuego is erupting!" It's way past mightnight and we had been asleep for a few hours only to now get out of our bunkbeds and up on the roof to really see, an erupting volcano! It's far away but sure, there is lava running down the side of the mountain and smoke and fumes spewing out of the top. And all this on the same day as we are supposed to climb an active volcano ourselves!!

After another day in Xela just sightseeing, buying breakfast at the market and eating it on the rooftop and bumming around the city we headed out on the nightmarish chickenbus-ride from Xela to Antigua. It takes four hours which is just more than my legs are comfortable being crammed up and squashed and it didn't even take ten minutes before a third man decided he wanted to sit next to us too, and then we were three on the tiny bus seat. But we got there and headed straight to A place to Stay Hotel (I follow my own Guatemala advice), and Raul was a darling as always. He gave us a dorm room with four bunk beds, booked us on a volcano trip the next day and fixed a shuttle for us to the airport early Saturday morning. Everything was taken care of! We walked around the city and had some dinner before going to bed early only to be woken up to see the mountain melting before our eyes!

Later on Friday it was time to ascend Volcán Pacaya. It is one of Guatemala's three active volcanoes (Fuego and Santiago are the other two) and we were a big group of around 50 people heading up the narrow tracks. It was pretty crammed and I felt like the ultimate tourist being guided around, but all grudges disappeared as we saw the lava. We came to a hilltop and the valley below had been filled with lava after the previous eruption last year. We then went on a 15 minute hike across the lava, some places where so hot our shoes nearly melted, other places it was like a sauna door had just opened, it was amazing! We got to the lookoutspot where you could really get a good view of the river of lava and burning rock was constantly falling out of the crater. We then saw the most magnifiscent sunset over Agua and Fuego (still spewing smoke and ashes) and walked down in the dark. We got back to Antigua late, packed our stuff and headed home to Norway early Saturday morning. I've now spent the first day back at work being home sick in bed, but it has been a fantastic trip from start to finish and I can't wait for the next adventure!

Suerte!

Home turf

After ten months away from Guatemala we are finally back in Xela! But lots have happenend since that, so let's start at the beginning:

Laguna de Apoyo
Kristoffer came late on Friday night and Jaime was dancing around outside the airport with a big sign with our names on it, ready to take us to Laguna de Apoyo south of Masaya where Kari, a Norwegian friend from Melbourne works. It is a little piece of paradise and as we came Kari gave us the grand tour of the place. It basically exists of jungle and a lake and is in a volcanic crater so it's pretty cool. There's no light around so we could see about a zillion stars, pretty fantastic.

On Saturday we borrowed a cayak and went across the lake. It's a good six kilometer padle, and with the wind going strong against us it was tough at times. We're happy when we arrived at the other side, and could just lie down and let the wind take us back to shore. Kari entertained us all day and they have wonderful food at the place so we're pretty happy when we headed back to Managua that night. In Managua we stayed at a hot little hostel and I was thrilled when we could get out of the dirty city and on to the bus to El Salvador.

San Salvador
We arrived in San Salvador early afternoon after two border crossings and as many police checks. We met a Danish guy on the bus and three Americans and a French lady and all decided to head out to the nicer parts of San Salvador together. Due to lots of people who've been expelled from USA and now have crap lives in El Salvador there is a fair bit of crime and approximately 3000 murders a year. That's a fair bit for a country with less than 5 million people. And of course, there is a reason I first said this now, after passing through safely. We are taking care, mum!

But it was nice to see San Salvador as well and we spent the evening on a roof top terrace with the other travellers.

Xela
Bright and early Monday morning it was time to head to Guatemala. I felt at home as soon as we crossed the border and we were in Guatemala City in no time. We caught a "taxi" (meaning a guy who stood at the bus stop wanting to take us somewhere for a ridiculous price of money, without no official certifications as a taxi driver. Anyway, we got were we needed to be on time, so no worries).

It was marvellous to see Xela again and we headed straight to a hotel, dropped our bags and went to see Marte. She had just had a tough meeting with all the students, but ready for a beer, so Tecun next stop. Kristoffer asked why I didn't worry so much here in Xela, but felt rather uncomfortable in, say Managua, and it's because here I feel like home!

Fuentes Georginas
After a bit (lot) of local beer Monday night we decided to head to Fuentes Georginas yesterday. It's hot springs about half an hour out of Xela. We politely asked the bus driver to stop at the right spot, but he happily ignored our request and drove straight past. We got out on the highway in the middle of nowhere and started to walk back to Zunil. Suddenly there is a guy and his son, in a pick up in the opposite direction from where we were going who waved at us and asked if we were going to the bus station. We said we're heading up to the hot springs and he went sure, 40 quetzales and I'll take you there. So we drove up in the back of a pick up enjoying the fantastic view. When we got there he said he could pick us up as well but wanted to be paid up front. Ok, we thought and enjoyed a few hot hours in the sulphurfilled water. We nearly started walking down to Zunil after waiting 30 minutes for our ride, but remember this is mañana mañana land and you have to give people some slack, because our friend rocked up as promised and took us down to the bus station. It's good to have faith in mankind.

Xela is at our doorstep and need to be explored. Hasta pronto.

You spoiled little brat

I have left Leon. It was a fantastic city with some absolutely amazing people. I truly understand why Kulturstudier wants to have their study center there. Other than that I've just caught a taxi from Leon to Managua. It has been the most amazing taxi ride ever, I have seen volcanoes, el campo, tiny pueblos and zona francas which phenomenon needs its own blog entry to explain. Will come later. However it was also sad, because Victor, the taxidriver, told me a lot about what does not go so well in this country, and there is a lot of it. Managua for example comes out as one shitty capital and I want to spend as little time here as possible. Fair bit of crime, corruption etc, how can I get out of here??

Anyway, at the airport now waiting for Kristoffer, and after what I've heard from Victor I am so happy he's coming with me. Think I might kiss him when he gets here.

"Call on me" vs "Take me on"

It was another funny day on the bus to and from the study centre, where the bus was blaring all kind of music, most of which I would be embarrased of if found in my CD collection.

After a short day at school where I joined a Spanish 2 tutorial (waaay over my head), yet understood surprisingly much, most of it thanks to the Spanish teacher Carolina's beautiful intonation we headed home and decided to join another aerobic class after Monday's success.

It is hard to explain but what you see is basically what you get, and it looks hilarious at least! Let me say that I have never experienced such arse-shaking, hip-rolling, hand-waving or tip-toeing in a gym class before, and Elixia will never be the same after this. We were about 30 mujeres (no boys), about half of them from Kulturstudier, and of course the little man in orange at the front thought this newfound attention was good fun. He loved running around waving his hands like Kirsten Dunst in Bring it On (don't see it if you haven't, it's crap, but the hand movement is similar), and was also very helpful during stretching. The lack of guys was fair enough, however some of the moves suggested that the instructor might have been bribed so the chicos could get a private performance at a lager stage.

You get the picture, right?

Perdido en traducción

E: Hola. Hablas español?
M: Un poquito.
E: Quieres vas a un volcán?
M: Si, cuando? Y quel volcán? Hablas ingles?
E: No.
M: No?? Donde eres?
E: Donde eres?
M: Noruega. Y tu?
E: Un país pequeño, sud de la Noruega.
M: Dinamarca?
E: Si.
M: Hva? Taler du dansk?

And there we go. It's a small world and there's no chance you can hide from other Vikings, especially not in a city like Leon. The 70 Norwegians walking around town makes a fair standpoint and the city has grown in popularity amongs Australians, Dutch, Germans, Americans and now Danes too. Nevertheless, it doesn't decrease the love I have for the place, I grow more and more fond of it every day and after a spectacular lecture in Latin American studies this morning I just want to find my old school books and start reading for the upcoming exam.

Today has mostly been spent at the study centre which many of the students also just call the "beach", and naturally I still get confused when they sigh, roll their eyes and say "I have to go to the beach today" as it was something they detested, but it then also means having lectures, which some, especially now that exams are looming would rather be without and spend the time doing readings that should have been done ages ago.

Tonight the local caretakers of the houses hosted a Noche Cultural, a cultural evening where we were introduced to Nicaraguan food. We clapped tortillas, made a sweet drink and tamales (corn dough, beef and veggies in bananaleaf - yum), and I feel slightly more Nicaraguan now.

Nevertheless it has been another hot day and Scarlett and Rhett has actually improved in readability and I've progressed noticably in Gone with the Wind. If not good for anything else at least it helps me fall asleep.

Buenas noches.

En un país abajo?

It was surreal to sit on an antique school bus from USA, driving across the dry bushland of Nicaragua listening to a modern Latin American version of Men at Work's "Land Down Under". Despite it being old and "harry" it's one of the songs that makes me most patriotic towards Australia (only beaten by the Qantas song). That's just some of the things you somehow more frequently experiences in Latin America than elsewhere on the planet, and I was torn between two of my favourite continents while heading out to the study centre, which is conviently located on the beach overlooking the magnifiscent Pacific Ocean.

Other than that today has just been another hot day. I enjoy the jetlag actually as it means I am bright awake by 6.30am and can enjoy a short hour of comfortable temperatures before the sun starts broiling everything it can gets it's rays on. Tonight we're going to a gym class - aerobic, and I've been warned it could be compared to the music video to "Call on me". Definitively something to look forward to...

Found

I found my watch! It disappeared last weekend in Hemsedal, but has now miraculously appeared again in Nicaragua. Must have been something to do with loosing my sunnies and carma and all.

Anyway, today has been another very eventful day. We started out with breakfast at Big Foot, the local hangout for backpackers and alike and had a very "Nicaraguan" breakfast of granola, youghurt and bagels before walking around town looking for sights. The cathedral which is the biggest in Central America was unfortunately closed, but we found a memorial for heroes and martyres as well as a former prison and a headless priest. Then we were invited to a street party by strangers, watched a local baseball match and roamed around the graveyard. All this before drinking a few litres of beer costing the grand amount of C$ 26 a pop (AU$2 og 12NOK) and taking a microbus back to the city centre. Microbuses are a funny phenomenon and exists in Guatemala as well, it's minivans driving along the road, picking up everyone for C$ 3 (about one krone or 20c) and taking you (after driving everyone else home first) to where you want to go. Convienient albeit not always the fastest way to get around.

Nevertheless, all of this naturally makes for lots of impressions which in addition to very hot weather makes me tired. So disregard the "local" time on this blog post, it's far from 4am in the morning, but I am tired and heading to bed.

Hasta luego, I'm up for Spanish classes mañana!

Lost

We caught a taxi out to Los Peñitas and met Rigo and some of the other teachers and jumped in a boat. Tonje Camilla, Hamdi and Oeyvind had decided to come as well, and within short time we found ourself on the deck of a small boat, flashing our (my) white belly and drinking ice cold beer in the very hot weather. We were going on a sump safari and as the mangrove forest closed around us it was a magical feeling. Rigo was sitting with two bird-books and whenever we saw something move he was right there with the map pointing at what kind of bird it is.

We entered a national reserve and drove close to the shoreline (though inland, separated from the sea by the mangroves) for nearly an hour, bird-wathing and enjoying existence. We met some local fishermen and saw tons of blue herrons, green herrons, white stork like birds and alike. It was absolutely magnificent, and Tonje Camilla was even more satisfied, if she hadn't joined us she would have been at home complaining about why she never did stuff like this, so all very good.

On our way back we stopped at a small opening in the mangroves and walked a few hundred meters through the bushland. And what we saw was undescribable. The beach was white as my skin really, and as far as you could see to your left and right there was not one other person. We had this paradize to ourselves and as I focused on the horizont I am pretty sure I could see Australia on the other side of the Pacific Ocean. Absolutely fantastic and the waves were just big enough they would tumble you around, yet not knock you to the ground unconcious. Despite the fact that I was able to battle the waves, my sunglasses decided to drown and I am sure they will never be found. There's just a tiny bit of water to search through.

Wimps stay home?

I nod, enthusiastically and smile. "Yeah they do I say." I am on flight AA985, half in coma after many hours without sleep and on my way to Managua, Nicaragua. The airhostess looks at my t-shirt and my company´s slogan and says it´s a brilliant idea. I totally agree. Dare to x-plore.

So, how did I get on to AA985? Pretty easy, you jump on a plane i Oslo, a new one in Paris and third one in Miami. Gotta say though, air travel is not like it used to be. It took me 20 hours of travel from Oslo to Managua, only 14 flying time. That means six hours in transit and I spent the whole of three minutes in a shop (Starbucks of course), and it wasn´t because I didn´t want to linger around Duty Free shops, there just wasn´t time! Security after security measures have made a three hours transit just enough time to go from Gate 34 to 56. But I got through the final customs check in Managua, which was ten times more organized than it´s brother in the US of A, and got out on the street. I looked left, right and center when a man runs up to me. "Hola, Maria? I saw your red passport, and thought it had to be you!" Good to know the oil fund looks after me even when I´m not on home soil.

So, I was picked up in Managua by Rigo and Flavio and we drove two hours to Leon in northeastern Nicaragua. It was good to be back in Central America, yet the smells, the sounds, the traffic conditions is always a bit of a shock.

I should have known better. After a quick shower I found myself next to a guerillasoldier with a plastic machine gun, a girl wearing purple balloons, a treebranch on her head and looked like a grape, five basketball-players with stinky socks and cat(wo)man who purred and rolled over on the ground if you scratched his belly. Welcome to Kulturstudier´s bi-annual costume-party! It was great to see Tonje Camilla again, and she introduced me to most of the students (and many of them maaany times) who study in Leon. It was fun to see them in that "state" of mind, and I wonder how many will remember what they got up to today.

Today I woke up at 7.30am (jetlagged) and was once again faced with the exploded bag-phenomenon. I think is has the annoying habit of following me, and it is absolutely not my fault. For those who travelled with me last year in Guatemala they would know I really tried to keep everything neat and clean and organized.

Did I mention I had been at the hotel room for the total amount of two minutes when the photo was taken. It´s like I get the key to the door, open the door, but my bag down on the floor and BOOOM - all the content is out on the nearest bed. Really got to work on that.

Nevertheless, now I've walked around town, love the way the give you road descriptions, I live for example two and a half block northeast of the church. Or up the road from the plaza or similar. But, it´s once again time to explore a new country, I am heading on a boat trip this afternoon which should be great. Until next time, take care!

And Kristin, I think I found your Australian...